Introduction:From documentary filmmaker to Gesha estate owner, how did Adam Overton discover an Ethiopian landrace genetically close to Panamanian Gesha? This in-depth report takes you through the founding journey of Gesha Village Estate, uncovering the science, geography, and flavor secrets behind the search for its roots, as well as revealing the potential and challenges of Ethiopia’s native Gesha.

Gesha coffee is now one of the top varieties in the specialty coffee market, renowned for its unique floral notes, citrus tones, and long-lasting aftertaste. But where did this globally beloved coffee bean originally come from? The answer might be more complex than you’d imagine. Documentary filmmaker Adam Overton and his photographer wife Rachel Samuel, after filming a coffee-themed documentary deep in Ethiopia, were deeply captivated by the land, thus embarking on a transcontinental journey to trace the roots of Gesha.

Before meeting coffee variety expert Willem Boot, Adam knew next to nothing about growing coffee. He was a documentary director, and his wife Rachel was a photographer. They already had a strong interest in coffee culture, but it wasn’t until 2007, when they were invited to Ethiopia to film a coffee-related documentary, that their passion for coffee cultivation was truly ignited. It was then that they conceived the idea of buying land and growing their dream Gesha coffee. But why Ethiopia?

The answer is clear: because Ethiopia is widely regarded as the birthplace of Gesha. Historical records indicate that in the 1930s, researchers collected Gesha seeds from the pristine forests of the Bench-Maji region. These seeds were later taken to Panama, where they rose to fame only in 2004 after winning the “Best of Panama” competition. Moreover, Adam’s wife is Ethiopian herself, which further motivated them to return to their roots.

In 2009, fate brought them together with Willem Boot, an expert who was already cultivating Gesha in Panama and was passionate about finding its Ethiopian landrace. As early as 2006, Willem had purchased La Mula Estate in Panama and began planting Gesha. Three years later, the estate’s Gesha made a remarkable splash in international competitions. To learn from his experience, Adam and Rachel flew from Ethiopia’s capital to Panama to consult Willem on cultivation techniques and variety selection.

However, Willem himself had long been trying to solve a mystery: where in Ethiopia did the true Gesha actually originate? Thus, he led multiple expeditions deep into Ethiopia’s primeval forests to find wild varieties genetically matching Panamanian Gesha, though without any major breakthroughs until then. After getting to know him, Adam and his wife resolved to complete this mission together.

Initially, they considered looking for land near the capital, Addis Ababa, but quickly realized that to meet the high altitude, cool microclimate, and specific soil conditions required by Gesha, they would have to move to even more remote areas. Eventually, they arrived in the Bench-Maji zone in southwestern Ethiopia, close to the Sudanese border. This area is sparsely populated, with poor transportation — it takes up to two days of driving from the capital — but the natural conditions are ideal.

Bench-Maji is a region long isolated from the outside world, inhabited by the indigenous Meanit people who speak their own unique language and even refer to outsiders as “China!” With the help of local guides, Adam and his wife trekked through mountains and valleys to find mountainous regions at elevations of around 1900 to 2100 meters. The area features a cool climate, stable rainfall, and soil derived from untouched primeval forests, surrounded by naturally growing coffee plants that have thrived for years. After three years of searching, they finally decided to settle here and named the farm “Gesha Village Coffee Estate.”

In October 2011, the farm officially broke ground. The initial environment was extremely primitive; watchtowers had to be erected and armed guards stationed to ward off wildlife. When Willem Boot first visited as a consultant, what he saw looked more like a campsite than a modern farm. However, a turning point soon came. In the nearby Gori Gesha primeval forest, they discovered a group of wild coffee trees strikingly similar in morphology to those in Panama. These trees grew under tall shade trees, with branches, leaf shapes, and fruit appearances nearly identical, and emitted an intense jasmine aroma that was truly astonishing.

This forest is just 20 kilometers from the estate and is believed to possibly be the original location where Gesha seeds were collected in the 1930s. In February 2012, Willem Boot returned to confirm the variety and brought samples to collaborate with botanist Dr. Sarada Krishnan from the Denver Botanic Gardens in the United States for genetic comparison analysis. After nine months of detailed examination, the results showed that these wild Gesha varieties are highly genetically similar to Panamanian Gesha, almost certainly confirming them as the same lineage.

Today, Gesha Village Coffee Estate covers a cultivation area of 300 hectares, with plans to expand by another 50 hectares in the future. Planting density is controlled at just 2000 trees per hectare to ensure each coffee tree receives ample nutrients and sunlight. The estate has planted numerous shade trees, which not only aid coffee growth but also preserve biodiversity. For processing methods, both washed and natural (sun-dried) approaches are used, with the washed process employing the eco-friendly Penagos machine to reduce water waste and maintain pure flavor.

In 2015, the first harvest of Gesha green beans was sent to Willem Boot for cupping, and the results amazed everyone — it turned out to be one of the best-performing batches he had ever tasted. From 1931, when the Gesha seeds left Africa, to 85 years later when a documentary filmmaker led their return to their homeland, this cross-time, cross-continent coffee story is not only a journey of roots but also a renewed exploration of flavor and varietal potential.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.