Introduction:Delve into the WWII historical roots behind Mandheling coffee, as well as the unique status and stringent selection criteria of "Golden Mandheling." This article traces the origins of the wet-hulled processing method, the characteristics of the Liberica-like bean, to how PWN Company crafts top-tier Golden Mandheling, and offers practical pour over parameters to help you fully grasp this classic Indonesian bean—from flavor to technique.
With its full-bodied, low-acid, and smooth profile, Mandheling coffee has become a favorite among those who prefer less acidic brews. But where does the name "Mandheling" come from? How does the commonly seen "Golden Mandheling" differ from regular Mandheling? This article begins with a small story from the WWII era, taking you on a journey to explore the origin of the Mandheling name, and to understand how Golden Mandheling from Indonesia’s PWN Company has become a symbol of high quality through rigorous quality control. We’ll also share practical pour over tips for Golden Mandheling, so you can brew a coffee rich in flavor depth at home.
Many people new to specialty coffee are often surprised by its pronounced fruit acidity—especially those accustomed to bold, rich flavors may find high-acid coffee hard to appreciate. In such cases, a cup of smooth, mellow Mandheling with a steady aroma often becomes their favorite. Among them, Golden Mandheling produced by PWN Company is particularly esteemed for its high selection standards and consistent flavor profile, regarded as one of the finest among Mandhelings.
Speaking of Golden Mandheling, we must mention the origin of the name "Mandheling." It is said that during WWII, a Japanese soldier in Indonesia tasted a coffee with a rich and full-bodied mouthfeel that left a deep impression on him. Wanting to know the name of the coffee, he asked the shop owner—but due to the language barrier, the owner misunderstood and thought he was asking about his hometown, replying "Mandailing." In Japanese pronunciation, "Mandailing" sounds very similar to "Mandheling," and thus the soldier remembered the name as "Mandheling." After the war, he couldn’t forget that coffee and asked a trading acquaintance to go to Indonesia to find it, which helped popularize Mandheling coffee in the Japanese market.
The local intermediary who helped that Japanese businessman obtain the coffee back then is none other than the now well-known PWN Company in Indonesia. Notably, PWN Company had already registered "Golden Mandheling" as its exclusive brand, distinct from the later "Ding Shang Golden Mandheling" registered by the Japanese businessman. These two have different brand positioning and marketing strategies, so comparing which is more “premium” or “tastier” isn’t quite appropriate—it ultimately comes down to personal taste preference.
Most coffee beans in Indonesia are processed using the "wet-hulled" method, designed to cope with the region’s hot and humid climate and to shorten the drying time. Traditional wet processing first removes the coffee fruit's outer skin, pulp, and some mucilage, then sends the parchment-covered beans (still with mucilage) to the processing mill. Since the beans are still slightly moist at this stage, the mill removes the parchment layer (commonly called "husk paper") to accelerate drying. This is similar to how fruit dries and hardens as moisture evaporates. However, removing the husk paper before it is fully dry makes the bean structure more fragile, prone to cracking under pressure and forming curved fractures resembling deer hooves—hence the term "deer hoof beans" (or "羊蹄豆").
Deer hoof beans are not defective beans but a natural result of the wet-hulled process. However, under PWN’s strict standards, such irregular-looking beans are sorted out to ensure visual consistency in the final product. PWN’s Golden Mandheling is even more rigorously selected: only beans sized 18 mesh and above are chosen, and no more than 3 defective beans are allowed per 300 grams of green beans. Moreover, these beans undergo three rounds of manual sorting, followed by machine sorting based on density and color, ensuring each bean meets consistently high standards of quality and appearance.
Such a high-spec sorting process limits the yield of PWN Golden Mandheling but also ensures its stable and outstanding flavor performance. While other sellers may also offer so-called "Golden Mandheling"—some even selecting 18-mesh-and-above G1 grade beans and employing multiple screenings to mimic PWN’s appearance standards—their flavor and purity still struggle to match PWN’s output. When purchasing, look for an official PWN factory certificate and original jute sack packaging, key indicators of authenticity.
In terms of roast style, PWN Golden Mandheling is typically medium-dark roasted to fully bring out its rich texture and delicate spice notes. For pour over brewing, we recommend using a KONO filter cone, with water at 88°C and a medium grind size, to showcase its rich mouthfeel layers and clean finish.
Suggested pour over parameters:
- Filter cone: KONO filter cone
- Water temperature: 88°C
- Coffee dose: 15 grams
- Coffee-to-water ratio: 1:15
- Grind size: Approximately 70% passing through a Chinese standard No. 20 sieve (medium-coarse grind)
Steps as follows: Wet the filter paper with hot water and attach it tightly to the cone, then discard the pre-wetting water. Next, add 15 grams of coffee grounds and gently level them. The first step is to pour water in a “の” shape from the center outward, adding about 30 grams for the bloom, letting it sit for about 30 seconds. After blooming, continue pouring slowly with a small stream from the center outward until the total water volume reaches 125 grams for the first pour. When the water level drops to just about to expose the coffee bed, pour again up to a total of 225 grams, keeping the total brew time around 2 minutes.
With this brewing method, PWN Golden Mandheling will exhibit light spice notes like herbs and cinnamon, with a full body and notable sweetness. As the temperature cools, fruity acidity gradually emerges along with aromas reminiscent of melon, leaving a refreshing and long-lasting aftertaste.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.