Introduction:Delve into the 90+ Company’s Juliette Geisha coffee beans from Panama’s Volcán region, exploring everything from the terroir and varietal characteristics to the unique Profile Processing method. Practical pour over parameters and flavor profile analysis are also provided to help coffee enthusiasts fully grasp the essence of this premium-grade Geisha.
Within the global specialty coffee map, Panama is renowned for its exceptional geography and climate, which nurture numerous high-quality coffees. Among them, the Geisha variety is hailed as one of the finest in the coffee world. Since being introduced by European immigrants in the late 19th century, Panamanian coffee has evolved over more than a century. It wasn’t until 2005, when the Geisha from Hacienda Esmeralda stunned the Best of Panama (BOP) competition, that it established its international reputation. This article focuses on one of Panama’s three major coffee regions — Volcán — and takes an in-depth look at the 90+ Company’s Geisha estate and its most iconic offering: the Juliette Geisha coffee bean.
Panama’s ability to grow such high-quality coffee is closely tied to its geographical environment. The country is located in the southern part of Central America, featuring a mountainous terrain with approximately 43% of its land covered by forests, providing a rich array of microclimates. Influenced by the equator, Panama enjoys a tropical maritime climate with stable temperatures ranging between 23°C and 27°C throughout the year, and distinct dry and rainy seasons. Annual rainfall averages between 1,500 and 2,500 millimeters. Particularly unique are the east-west mountain ranges that allow cool air from high altitudes to flow into areas above 1,900 meters, giving rise to microclimates such as those in Boquete and Volcán. These highlands, coupled with volcanic soils, create ideal growing conditions for premium coffee varieties like Geisha.
Panama’s main coffee-growing regions are concentrated in Chiriquí Province, including Boquete, Volcán, and Renacimiento — all located near active volcanoes. Among them, Boquete is the most famous, home to internationally renowned coffee estates such as Hacienda Esmeralda, Elida Estate, and Don Pachi Estate. In contrast, the Volcán region lies on the eastern side of Volcán Barú. With northern mountains blocking Atlantic moisture, its climate is drier but enjoys abundant sunshine. Coffee is primarily grown at elevations between 1,200 and 1,800 meters in volcanic soils. Though less internationally renowned than Boquete, Volcán has been earning accolades in BOP competitions in recent years, gradually making a name for itself. Notable estates in the area include the 90+ Geisha Estate, Hartmann Estate, and Jensen Estate.
When it comes to the 90+ (Ninety Plus) Company, one must mention its founder, Joseph Brodsky. Inspired by the Geisha from Hacienda Esmeralda in 2006, he established this company dedicated to high-end specialty green coffee. In cupping standards, beans scoring 90 points or above are generally considered top-tier, leading many to assume that 90+ only produces ultra-high-scoring beans. In reality, the company’s standout success is not solely due to bean selection, but also its unique Profile Processing method.
Initially, 90+ operated much like other green coffee suppliers, purchasing coffee cherries from farmers and processing them. However, through self-developed processing techniques, they successfully created coffees with intense and highly distinctive flavors, such as Aricha and Beloya, quickly gaining recognition. As profits grew, 90+ gradually became more involved in the production process of green beans — from varietal selection and growing environments to post-harvest processing — collaborating closely with farmers. The Profile Processing system was implemented to strictly control the quality of each batch. This system has positioned 90+ not just as a trader, but as a premium coffee innovator with control over the entire production chain.
In 2009, a certain coffee brand brought its technology and expertise to Panama’s Volcán region, establishing its own Geisha estate. Having unsuccessfully searched for a Geisha-like variety in Ethiopia earlier, the brand decided to grow Geisha themselves and apply their proprietary processing techniques. In 2014, the estate officially launched its first batch of coffee beans, marking the birth of its series. By 2019, the company expanded further by acquiring new land and founding the Ninety Plus Barú Estates. Currently, the most commonly available offerings from this brand’s Geisha beans on the market include Juliette and Eleta — both flagship products of the series and processed using the brand’s exclusive method, which is speculated to be of the anaerobic fermentation type, though specific details remain undisclosed.
The Panamanian 90+ Geisha · Juliette coffee beans offered by the merchant are grown at the brand’s Geisha Estate in the Volcán region, at elevations between 1,400 and 1,800 meters, and are of the classic Geisha variety. The beans are processed using the brand’s proprietary method — although details are not publicly disclosed, the industry widely speculates that it involves anaerobic fermentation, resulting in a unique and complex flavor profile.
According to tasting notes, this coffee exhibits multi-layered aromas and flavors when medium roasted. It is recommended to use a V60 dripper, with a 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, and water temperature controlled at 92°C for pour over. Once brewed, the first impression is an aroma reminiscent of muscat grapes, followed by a bright acidity akin to perfumed lemon upon tasting, accompanied by fruity and champagne-like notes of grape and wine. As the temperature slightly cools, the wine-like sweetness becomes more pronounced. The overall mouthfeel is rich and layered, with a long and memorable aftertaste. It is not only suitable for coffee enthusiasts seeking in-depth tasting experiences but also an excellent choice for advanced pour over practitioners aiming to challenge high-level flavor expression.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
