Introduction:In 2022, the title of Champion in the Natural Geisha category at the Panama BOP (Best of Panama) competition was claimed by Guarumo Coffee Farm. This miniature estate, spanning just four hectares, stood out with its high-altitude Geisha cultivation and exceptional processing techniques. This article delves into the farm’s historical background, the legacy of the Hartmann family, and provides a detailed breakdown of the flavor profile and expert pour-over brewing parameters of the championship-winning natural Geisha — from grind size and water temperature to a three-stage pouring technique — helping you fully showcase its layered flavors of mango, pineapple, white floral notes, and malty sweetness.
The champion of the Natural Geisha category in the 26th edition of the Best of Panama (BOP) competition in 2022 was awarded to Guarumo Coffee Farm. This small-scale farm, covering only four hectares, was acquired in 2013 by the third generation of the Hartmann family. Despite its modest size, it has repeatedly demonstrated remarkable performance. Even non-competition batches, such as a 2022 new crop natural Geisha introduced by a well-known coffee brand, also showcase the outstanding flavor profile brought by the farm’s high-altitude growing environment and light roast processing. This article will guide readers through the historical roots and family background of Guarumo Coffee Farm, and offer an in-depth analysis of the rich flavors and precise pour-over parameters of this award-winning coffee bean.
Also known as Guarumo Coffee Farm, this estate is located in the Santa Clara region of Chiriquí Province, Panama, situated just north of the renowned Hartmann Estate. This meticulously managed small farm was officially purchased in 2013 by Ratibor Hartamann, the third-generation manager of the Hartmann family, and covers a total area of only four hectares. The farm primarily grows the Geisha variety at an altitude exceeding 1,750 meters, representing a classic high-altitude specialty coffee growing environment.
The story of the Hartmann family is one of immigration and perseverance, moving from Europe to the Americas. The family’s founding ancestor, Alois Strasil Hartmann, was born in what was then the Austro-Hungarian Empire — now part of the Czech Republic. Affected by war and political turmoil, he decided to leave his homeland in search of a new life in the New World. Alois first went to New York, USA, and later moved on to Panama. However, after a few months of urban life, he found himself unable to adapt to the fast-paced rhythm of Panama City. His adventurous spirit led him along mountain routes to the Volcán region, where he settled down, married his first wife Susana Troetsch, and had a son, Hartmann Troetsch, who would later establish the Hartmann Estate. Starting in 1940, Hartmann Troetsch took over the family land, began clearing and cultivating the area, and thus officially inaugurated the history of the Hartmann Estate.
The first generation of the Hartmann family established their coffee-growing business in the Volcán region of Panama. By the second generation, Hartmann Troetsch relocated the coffee-growing area to the Santa Clara region and formally founded the Hartmann Estate. During the early stages of development, Hartmann Troetsch made the decision to preserve most of the original woodland within the estate — a commitment to natural ecology and conservation that deeply influenced future generations. Today, the Guarumo Coffee Farm managed by the third-generation owner, Ratibor Hartamann, continues this tradition, dedicating only about 20% of the overall estate to coffee cultivation, while the rest is preserved for native trees and wildlife. As a result, the farm attracts a large number of native bird species, most notably toucans, which have even become the official emblem of the estate.
In addition to managing their own estate, the Hartmann family has long provided professional management services for other renowned farms in the surrounding area, such as Ninety Plus farms in Panama and the highly regarded Finca La Mula (Mule Farm). Although Guarumo is a relatively new estate for the family, it is not their first time making a mark at the BOP. As early as 2020, the estate’s natural Geisha impressed some judges with its complex aromas of jasmine, rose, champagne, candy, and bergamot, emerging as a dark horse that year. By 2022, Guarumo Coffee Farm once again claimed the BOP Natural category championship with its natural Geisha, proving its consistent and outstanding quality.
The 2022 new-crop natural Geisha from Guarumo Coffee Farm, introduced by a well-known coffee brand — though not from the competition batch — also demonstrates the potential of high-altitude Geisha. To preserve its tropical fruit and white floral characteristics, the brand opted for a light roast, allowing the coffee’s original flavors to shine through to the greatest extent possible.
Cupping results show that this Guarumo natural Geisha emits pronounced aromas of dried mango and strawberry upon grinding. After brewing, the coffee presents intense notes of mango and pineapple when sipped, accompanied by elegant white floral tones, sugary sweetness akin to candy, and a complex finish reminiscent of malted beer fermentation. The overall flavor profile is rich, balanced, and multi-dimensional. Due to its high-altitude cultivation, the beans are denser in texture; even with a light roast, they remain firm, so it is recommended to use a medium-fine grind (with approximately 78% extraction rate using a Chinese No. 20 standard sieve) and extract with a relatively higher water temperature to fully unlock its potential.
Regarding pour-over parameters, a well-known coffee brand recommends using a V60 or similar cone-shaped dripper, with a coffee dosage of 15 grams and a 1:15 brew ratio. As mentioned above, the grind should be medium-fine (78% extraction rate using a No. 20 sieve), and the water temperature should be controlled between 90–91°C. The specific brewing method involves a classic three-stage circular pouring technique: First, pour 30 grams of water for pre-wetting to allow the coffee grounds to fully absorb moisture and form a “bun” shape, followed by a 30-second bloom. Next, in the second stage, pour steadily with a medium-fine stream until the total water reaches 125 grams, then pause and wait until the water level drops to about two-thirds of the coffee bed. Proceed to the third stage, pouring until the total brew weight reaches 225 grams, then stop. The total extraction time should be around 2 minutes and 18 seconds.
The flavor performance of this Guarumo natural Geisha is outstanding. The initial sip brings a juicy fusion of mango and pineapple, characterized by a bright acidity and sweet tone. The mid-palate reveals white floral notes and a soft malty fermentation sweetness, adding layers of complexity. The finish lingers with a candy-like fruity sweetness. Overall, it is a balanced and memorable cup. For coffee enthusiasts who enjoy tropical fruit flavors and delicate floral notes, this natural Geisha is definitely worth a try.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
