Introduction:For a long time, espresso in Italy has been priced at a low 1 euro, seen as a national cultural symbol. After the pandemic, costs soared, and some shops raised the price to 1.5 euros, which sparked consumer dissatisfaction. Recently, a three-time coffee competition champion was fined 1,000 euros (approximately 7,109 RMB) for selling decaffeinated espresso at 2 euros without displaying the price on the physical menu. This article delves into the pricing dilemma of espresso and how the specialty coffee movement is challenging traditional culture.
Espresso is not just a daily beverage but also a national cultural icon. In January 2022, this drink was even included in UNESCO's tentative list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, highlighting its special status in the hearts of Italians. However, with changing economic conditions, the price of espresso has become a point of contention.
For a long time, the price of espresso in local Italian cafes has been affordable, with most non-tourist area shops keeping it around 1 euro. Even during the period of 2.63% inflation from 2002 to 2012, this price largely held steady. In 2020, after the outbreak of the pandemic, despite rising costs, most shops still struggled to maintain the 1-euro price level.
But as the price of green coffee beans climbed, along with increasing labor and rent costs, many cafes were forced to raise prices to around 1.5 euros. This move triggered protests from the Italian consumer organization Codacons, with some members of the public believing that the price hike harmed consumer rights. Although most people gradually accepted this adjustment, there are still consumers who see 1.5 euros as a psychological ceiling.
Recently, a cafe owner was complained about by a customer for selling decaffeinated espresso at 2 euros without indicating the price on the physical menu. The police determined that the shop did not display prices clearly and issued a 1,000-euro fine (approximately 7,109 RMB). The owner argued that the price was listed on the digital menu, but the police emphasized that the physical menu must clearly state the price of all items, including decaffeinated espresso.
The owner further explained that decaffeinated coffee beans are inherently more expensive. He used decaffeinated beans from Mexico, and the baristas in his shop have strict standards for every cup. He admitted that while the fine was reasonable, what puzzled him more was that consumers generally believe espresso should be cheap, causing many shops to operate at a loss rather than adjust prices.
In fact, 99.9% of cafes in Italy usually do not list the price of decaffeinated espresso separately on the menu. In most cases, decaffeinated and regular espresso are priced the same. This fine incident has made the industry worry that other cafes might face similar risks, so the owner specifically posted a reminder to fellow shop owners about proper pricing regulations.
The owner, Francesco Sanapo, is a three-time Italian coffee competition champion and is quite well-known in the local coffee scene. After the incident, he discussed in an online post whether “Italians can be persuaded to pay more for espresso.”
He pointed out that espresso is deeply rooted in Italian culture, and most consumers believe it should be an affordable drink for everyone. As a result, even a small price increase can still cause dissatisfaction. Interestingly, Italians generally accept paying 2 euros for a newspaper, yet feel that 1.2 euros is too much for an espresso.
However, modern espresso is no longer made with low-quality Robusta beans—most shops now use higher-quality Arabica beans. Data from 2020 shows that the average price per kilogram of Arabica coffee beans is more than double that of Robusta, making it unrealistic to maintain the 1-euro price. Yet, to retain customers, many cafes either operate at a loss or use lower-quality beans.
Francesco believes this approach is unsustainable, and declining quality will only erode consumer trust in espresso. He advocates that as bean quality improves, offering high-quality espresso is the way forward. He himself was the first to raise the price of espresso from 1 euro to 1.5 euros, emphasizing the use of skilled baristas and high-quality beans, with precise extraction through the espresso machine to deliver a better flavor experience.
He pointed out that preserving a culture cannot rely solely on inheritance—it also needs to adapt to changing times. Only by improving the quality of each cup of espresso can more people gain a deeper understanding and appreciation for Italian espresso. He believes that as long as baristas can clearly explain the reasons for the price increase to customers and share the social and environmental impact of coffee, most customers are actually willing to accept reasonable price adjustments.
Many cafes simply follow competitors’ price hikes without adequate communication, and coupled with insufficient barista skills, this leads consumers to feel that the quality does not match the price. Francesco concluded by emphasizing: “If cafes can provide better service to customers, there won’t be complaints about expensive coffee, because the overall experience is worth it.”
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
