Introduction:Aside from the widely known Wallenford Estate, there is another lesser-known hidden gem in Jamaica Blue Mountain — Old Tavern Estate. Handcrafted by Alex Twyman, the plantation owner who has been rooted in the northern slopes of Blue Mountain for over half a century, this farm is renowned for its extremely low yield and exceptional quality. With an annual coffee production of just 40,000 pounds, less than 2% of the total Blue Mountain output, it possesses an irreplicable sweetness and unique aroma. This article will take you into this misty highland to explore the planting philosophy, microclimate secrets, and how owner Alex Twyman has reshaped the landscape of the entire Blue Mountain coffee industry.
When it comes to Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, many people immediately think of the well-known Wallenford Estate. However, hidden among these perpetually cloud-covered highlands lies a more low-profile yet highly representative top-tier estate — Old Tavern Estate. Managed by the 68-year-old owner Alex Twyman, who has been dedicated to growing Blue Mountain coffee since 1969, he has transformed this 130-acre coffee plantation on the northern slopes of Blue Mountain into a premier representation of Blue Mountain coffee through his commitment to the land and quality.
Born in London, Twyman moved to Jamaica in the 1950s. Initially, he knew nothing about coffee cultivation and couldn’t even tell a coffee tree from an orange tree. But with passion and years of hands-on exploration, he gradually mastered the cultivation techniques suited to Blue Mountain’s microclimate. The northern slopes of Blue Mountain, where Old Tavern Estate is located, feature a humid, foggy climate with relatively low temperatures and almost no frost. Such an environment causes the coffee cherries to mature unusually slowly — from flowering to red fruit ripeness takes about ten months, four to five months longer than in typical regions. This extended growth period allows the coffee beans to accumulate richer sugars, resulting in the distinctive sweet flavor of Old Tavern Estate coffee.
In addition to outstanding sweetness, this Blue Mountain coffee also emits a unique aroma. Some describe it as having a subtle woody freshness, while others detect a rich nutty tone. Although the planted variety is Arabica Typica, differences in microclimate and cultivation methods give its flavor profile a distinctiveness and complexity that clearly sets it apart from typical Typica.
Twyman insists on using the “shade-grown cultivation method,” retaining some tree shade to reduce direct sunlight. This not only helps the coffee cherries ripen slowly but also lessens reliance on chemical fertilizers and pesticides. While this farming method limits yield — producing only about 40,000 pounds of green beans annually, less than 2% of Blue Mountain’s total output, and a minuscule fraction of the over 140 billion pounds of coffee produced globally each year — it maintains a high level of quality consistency and secures a place in the premium market. Currently, Old Tavern Estate coffee is priced at over $50 per pound, nearly double the price of ordinary Blue Mountain coffee.
For this hard-to-come-by coffee, Twyman has his own unique recommendations for enjoyment. He points out: “My coffee is best enjoyed slowly after a meal, and even better paired with a cigar. It’s not a beverage for morning caffeine boosts — if you’re only after the caffeine, you’re truly missing out.”
The success of Old Tavern Estate comes not only from its dedication to quality but also from Twyman’s contributions to reforming the industry system. In the past, the Jamaican government, through the Coffee Industry Board, had full control over the production, procurement, and sales of Blue Mountain coffee. All smallholder farmers were required to sell their coffee cherries to the official entity for unified processing. However, Twyman believed that due to differences in altitude, soil, and microclimate, the quality of green beans produced by different farms varied inherently. Processing all coffee together could cause high-quality beans to be dragged down by inferior ones, creating a “bad money drives out good” situation.
To protect the uniqueness of his coffee, Twyman refused to hand over his coffee cherries for unified official processing, insisting on “growing and selling on his own.” This move once sparked major controversy and even drew attention from the International Monetary Fund (IMF). Under international pressure, the Jamaican government finally began adjusting its policies in 1983, gradually loosening control over the coffee industry. In 1997, it officially approved a small number of farms to have full autonomy over the entire process — from planting and washed processing to roasting. Old Tavern Estate was one of the first two farms to receive this honor, the other being RSW Estate. This reform not only allowed Twyman to fully control coffee quality but also laid a more solid foundation for the international reputation of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee.
To this day, Twyman still insists on not selling pre-ground coffee powder to avoid the rapid loss of aroma after grinding. If you wish to personally experience the unique sweetness and deep aroma of Old Tavern Estate Blue Mountain coffee, it is recommended to purchase its roasted beans and carefully savor each cup through pour over or siphon brewing methods, appreciating the time-honed essence and nature’s gift behind every sip.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
