Introduction:In 2020, Ethiopia held its first ever Cup of Excellence (COE) competition, where 28 specialty coffees scoring above 87 points stood out. Among them, three surpassed 90 points — all originating from the Sidamo region. This article delves into the awarded coffee varieties, regional distribution, processing methods, and auction details from the inaugural COE, using a natural-processed Typica from the West Arsi area as a case study. It also provides practical roasting profiles, cupping notes, and pour over parameters to help coffee enthusiasts appreciate the unique charm of Ethiopian coffee.
The year 2020 marked a milestone for Ethiopia’s coffee industry, with the debut of the COE (Cup of Excellence) competition. From numerous entries, 28 specialty coffees scoring over 87 points were selected, including three that achieved exceptional scores above 90 — all from the renowned Sidamo region. A certain coffee brand successfully bid on the 22nd-ranked lot, a natural-processed Typica grown by farmer Adem Banta Sute in the West Arsi area.
Farmers from various regions participated in this competition, with the Sidamo region standing out notably — not only for the number of entries but also for claiming all the awards above 90 points. Among them, farmer Niguse Gemeda Mude from the Bura area of Sidamo won the first-ever COE championship with a natural-processed Sidamo coffee scoring 91.04 points. These beans were later sold at auction on May 28th for $185.1 per pound.
The coffee brand in question secured the 22nd-ranked award-winning lot — a natural-processed Typica from the West Arsi region, grown by Adem Banta Sute, with a score of 87.64. The 60-year-old farmer hails from Refisa village in the Nensebo district of West Arsi, Oromia State, and has dedicated his life to coffee cultivation while raising 28 children. Prior to winning the award, his coffee was mainly sold to local traders. This recognition has now brought him and his coffee onto the international stage.
It is worth noting that many coffees on the market labeled as “COE same batch” have not actually gone through the official COE bidding process. They are merely exported from the same or neighboring regions. Although they may come from similar origins, they do not carry the certified quality and flavor assurance of COE. Genuine COE award-winning beans are uniformly stored, evaluated, and auctioned by the official body — a rigorous and transparent process that earns them internationally recognized acclaim for both flavor and quality.
Among the top 28 award-winning coffees in this COE, most varieties were labeled as Typica, 74110, 74158, or Kurme, rather than the commonly seen “Heirloom.” In fact, the term “Heirloom” is not precise in the Ethiopian context. As the birthplace of coffee, Ethiopia possesses an immensely rich and not fully classified coffee genetic pool, where many varieties are crossbred or interplanted, making traceability difficult. Hence, the general term “Heirloom” is used.
In reality, Ethiopian coffee varieties can be broadly divided into two categories: landraces and research varieties. 74110 and 74158 are research varieties developed by the Jimma Agricultural Research Center (JARC). In the 1970s, Ethiopia was hit by Coffee Cherry Disease (CBD), which drastically reduced yields. To identify varieties with natural disease resistance, JARC collected 639 samples between 1973 and 1975 and ultimately selected 13 disease-resistant varieties, including 74110 and 74158. The “74” in their codes refers to the year the samples were collected.
The 22nd-ranked lot in this competition employed the traditional natural (sun-dried) processing method. In Ethiopia, over 70% of coffee is still processed this way. This method is typically carried out by smallholders drying the cherries in their yards, rooftops, or even alongside roads — a low-cost but high-risk approach. Due to the lack of precise control, early natural lots often exhibited uneven flavors or over-fermentation. Processing by cooperatives or centralized facilities can yield more stable quality, but it requires considerable manual labor for turning the cherries — especially before the moisture content drops to 25%, when the cherries must be stirred manually every 30–60 minutes to prevent mold and off-flavors.
The coffee brand developed a dedicated roasting profile for this 22nd-ranked COE-winning lot to fully highlight its sweetness and complexity. Roasting began with an entry temperature of 170°C, initial flame set at 130, and the air damper opened to 3. The turning point occurred around 1 minute 32 seconds, with the drum temperature at 100.2°C, keeping the flame unchanged. At the 3-minute mark, the air damper was adjusted to 4, and at 4 minutes, the flame was increased to 140. When the drum temperature reached 150.5°C, the bean surface turned yellow and grassy notes faded, entering the drying phase. By 8 minutes 36 seconds, the bean surface showed wrinkles and dark spots, releasing a toast-like aroma that gradually transitioned to coffee notes. Close attention was then paid to the first crack. The first crack started at 9 minutes 10 seconds and continued to develop for 1 minute 30 seconds, with the beans being dropped at 192.5°C.
In cupping, this natural-processed Typica exhibited intense tropical fruit flavors, prominent sweetness, soft and layered acidity, and a finish with hints of honey and nuts. Upon receiving the beans, the coffee brand conducted three tests with varying roast levels and fine-tuned the roasting profile based on cupping results to achieve optimal balance and flavor expression.
If you wish to brew this coffee at home, it is recommended to use a V60 #01 filter, with water temperature controlled at 90–91°C, 15 grams of coffee, a 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio, and medium-fine grind (approximately 80% extraction through a No. 20 Chinese standard sieve). The brewing method suggested is a three-stage pour over: begin with a 30-second bloom using 30 grams of water, then pour in a slow circular motion until reaching 125 grams for the first pour. When the water level nearly exposes the coffee bed, pour again to 225 grams and stop. Wait until the water level is about to expose the coffee bed again before removing the filter. Total brew time is approximately 2 minutes.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
