Introduction:In the Traditional Category of the 2022 Best of Panama (BOP) competition, a coffee from Hacienda Hartmann—Chicho Gayo—stunned everyone by winning with exceptionally high flavor scores, setting a new record-high score for that category. Many have wondered: is this bean actually of the Geisha variety? Why was it disqualified last year, and how did it make a comeback to claim victory this year? This article delves into the breeding background of Chicho Gayo, its similarities and differences with Geisha, and also reviews the overall performance of the BOP competition under extreme climate conditions—offering you a comprehensive understanding of this captivating yet lesser-known specialty coffee.
The results of the 2022 Best of Panama (BOP) green coffee competition were officially announced. In addition to the rankings of various farms, one particular coffee bean from Hacienda Hartmann—Chicho Gayo (奇喬佳尤)—became the center of attention. It achieved an astonishingly high score in the Traditional Category (non-Geisha) not only breaking the category’s historical record but also sparking discussions due to its extraordinary floral and fruity notes. Many judges were amazed by its performance, even suspecting it might be a Geisha blend. So, is Chicho Gayo really a Geisha? And how did it stand out despite challenging climatic conditions?
As one of the top competitions in the global specialty coffee scene, BOP attracts numerous elite farms and processing mills every year. The theme of the 2022 competition was “We are Regions,” emphasizing the importance of local environments and producers. However, extreme weather—including frequent storms and unusual rainfall—has caused many Central and South American producing regions to face sharp declines in both yield and quality. This year, the number of submitted samples dropped from 169 in previous years to 133, highlighting the significant impact of climate on coffee production.
Even so, many outstanding samples still managed to shine. In the Geisha Category this year, four samples scored an average of over 95 points, with one natural-processed Geisha even receiving a perfect score of 100 from the judges. Meanwhile, in the Traditional Category, a non-Geisha coffee bean scored 94 points in cupping, setting a new historical high for the category. Its complex floral and fruity profile amazed many, to the point where it was initially suspected of being mistakenly entered into the Geisha Category. This remarkable coffee is none other than Chicho Gayo from Hacienda Hartmann.
Hacienda Hartmann’s owner explained after the competition that the "ancestors" of Chicho Gayo, like those of the Geisha variety, originated from Ethiopian exchange varieties sent to laboratories around the world back in the 1930s. However, Chicho Gayo is not a direct product of laboratory breeding. Instead, it is a new variety independently cultivated by the Hartmann family over 15 years using cross-pollination techniques. The parent variety, under Panama’s unique terroir, naturally underwent genetic adaptation and changes, eventually giving rise to this distinctive coffee.
This coffee wasn’t an immediate sensation. The owner of Hacienda Hartmann revealed that they submitted Chicho Gayo for evaluation the previous year, and although its flavor performance was outstanding, its flavor profile was so similar to that of Geisha that concerns arose about possible “accidental Geisha inclusion.” As a result, it was ultimately disqualified. To prove the purity of the variety, this year Hacienda Hartmann provided genetic comparison results confirming that Chicho Gayo is unrelated to the Geisha variety, and the BOP judges also acknowledged that it deserved to compete.
This year, Chicho Gayo demonstrated a layered complexity in cupping reminiscent of the 2004 Geisha champion from Elida Estate, though its flavor profile was slightly different: the former exhibited aromas of rose, jasmine, yellow peach, and bergamot, while the latter is known for its rose, bergamot, mango, and black tea notes. The richness and clarity of its flavors led many industry insiders to believe that Chicho Gayo could become another flavor benchmark alongside Geisha.
It’s worth noting that the development of Chicho Gayo was not without challenges. It wasn’t a direct product of a lab but gradually stabilized in quality and characteristics through long-term natural selection and manual screening in Panama’s unique environment. Every year, Hacienda Hartmann selects the most promising plants through cupping before proceeding with further cultivation. This rigorous approach has been a crucial factor in Chicho Gayo’s success.
For coffee enthusiasts, Chicho Gayo is not just a new variety worth following—it also reminds us that the future of specialty coffee isn’t limited to any single variety. While Geisha spearheaded the light roast trend and opened people’s eyes to the diverse flavor layers of coffee, the market still needs variety. The emergence of Chicho Gayo once again proves the potential and possibilities within specialty coffee.
In summary, the 2022 BOP competition not only showcased the high standards of the Geisha Category but also highlighted, through Chicho Gayo—the Traditional Category champion—that non-Geisha varieties can also deliver top-tier flavor profiles. From variety cultivation and climate adaptation to final cupping performance, every step of Chicho Gayo’s journey has been full of challenges and surprises. For readers wanting to explore the diversity of specialty coffee more deeply, this coffee is definitely worth keeping an eye on.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
