Introduction:An in-depth exploration of the origin, cultivation philosophy, and unique flavor profile of the 2022 BOP Natural Geisha Champion — Guaguá Geisha from Guarumo Coffee Farm, along with professional pour over recommendations. From its high-altitude growing environment to its captivating tropical fruit notes, learn the key to light roast extraction and elevate your home brewing performance.

At the 26th edition of the Best of Panama (BOP) green coffee competition in 2022, the Natural Geisha category was claimed by Guaguá Coffee Farm under the Hartmann family. This championship-grade coffee from Chiriquí Province, Panama, had already shown promise in previous competition seasons, and now it has conquered the palates of international judges with its exquisite fruitiness and layered sweetness. This article not only introduces this historic family-owned farm but also details the flavor characteristics of its naturally processed Geisha and offers practical pour over parameters to help you fully experience the refined expression of high-altitude Geisha.

Guarumo Coffee Farm, also translated as Guarumo Coffee Plantation, is located in Panama’s Santa Clara region, situated just north of the renowned Hartmann Estate. This small-scale farm spans only four hectares and was acquired in 2013 by Ratibor Hartmann, the third-generation member of the Hartmann family. It primarily grows the Geisha variety at an altitude of over 1,750 meters, placing it squarely within a classic high-altitude specialty coffee zone.

To understand the history of the Hartmann family, we must begin with the story of European immigration. The family’s founder, Alois Strasil Hartmann, originally hailed from the Austro-Hungarian Empire (now part of the Czech Republic). Due to war and political unrest, he eventually settled in New York, USA, before venturing to Panama in search of a new life. However, the urban pace did not suit this adventurous immigrant, who soon left Panama City, ventured inland along mountainous routes into the Volcán region, and put down roots there. He married his first wife, Susana Troetsch, and together they had Hartmann Troetsch, who would later establish the Hartmann Estate.

Starting in the 1940s, Hartmann Troetsch took over the family farmland and devoted himself to land clearing and coffee cultivation, officially marking the beginning of the Hartmann Estate’s legacy. The initial planting areas were located in the Volcán region, but later, the second generation of the family shifted the focus of cultivation to the Santa Clara region, which also became the estate’s core area. Notably, the Hartmann family has always emphasized ecological balance. The first generation was committed to preserving native woodlands, a principle inherited by later generations. To this day, only 20% of the farm’s area is used for coffee cultivation, with the rest maintained as pristine forest. This has attracted numerous native bird species, among which the toucan is the most famous and has become the estate’s symbolic emblem.

In addition to managing their own farm, the Hartmann family also provides technical management services for several other well-known farms in the region, including Ninety Plus and Finca La Mula (Mule Farm), underscoring their professional standing in the producing area. Although Guarumo Coffee Farm is relatively young, it is not making its first appearance in the BOP competition. As early as 2020, it caught the judges’ attention with its naturally processed Geisha, showcasing complex aromas such as jasmine, rose, champagne, and bergamot, and was hailed as that year’s dark horse.

This year, Guarumo Coffee Farm once again claimed the championship in the Natural category of the 26th BOP with its Natural Geisha, delivering an impressive flavor performance. One coffee brand had already introduced the 2022 harvest of Guarumo’s Natural Geisha prior to the competition. Though not from the competition lot, it similarly exhibited a high level of quality. To preserve its tropical fruit and floral characteristics, a light roast strategy was employed, perfectly highlighting the delicate traits of the Geisha variety.

Cupping results showed that this Natural Geisha released distinct notes of mango and dried strawberry upon grinding. After brewing, it presented sweet acidity reminiscent of tropical fruits like mango and pineapple, paired with white floral notes and a molasses-like sweetness. The finish carried a hint of beer fermentation complexity alongside lingering fruit candy notes, all wrapped in excellent balance and clear layering.

Grown in a high-altitude environment, the beans have a higher density. Light roasting not only preserves their vibrancy but also accentuates flavor nuances. It is recommended to use a medium-fine grind (using a Chinese No. 20 standard sieve, with an approximately 78% extraction rate), paired with a slightly higher water temperature to fully extract the fruitiness and sweetness.

Suggested pour over parameters are as follows: Use a V60 or similar cone-shaped dripper, with 15 grams of coffee grounds and a 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio. Grind size should be similar to that of fine sugar (Chinese No. 20 sieve, ~78% extraction rate), with water temperature controlled between 90–91°C. The pouring technique is recommended to follow a three-stage circular method:

• The first stage involves pouring 30 grams of water for blooming, allowing the coffee bed to expand uniformly into a “hamburger” shape, with a bloom time of about 30 seconds;
• The second stage consists of steadily pouring with a medium-fine stream in a circular motion until the total water reaches 125 grams, then pausing to allow the water level to naturally drop to about two-thirds of the coffee bed height;
• The third stage continues with a medium-fine circular pour until the total water volume reaches 225 grams, with a total extraction time of approximately 2 minutes and 18 seconds.

By applying the above parameters and techniques, the multi-layered flavors of Guarumo’s Natural Geisha can be fully revealed — the cup opens with a fruity sweetness blending mango and pineapple acidity, followed by a mid-palate of fresh white floral notes and soft malt sweetness, while the finish lingers with a sustained sweetness of molasses and fruit candy. It is a classic brew that invites you to deeply appreciate the charm of high-altitude Geisha.

The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.