Introduction:Delve into Fenghuang Town in Chaozhou, Guangdong, to uncover the origin of the legendary tea variety "Duck Shit Aroma" among Fenghuang Dancong oolong teas, as well as the moving story of the ancient Wenzhong tea tree that came back to life. We document this year’s tea-picking experiences under unusual climate conditions, analyze how slowly ripened leaves deliver a richer aftertaste, and introduce several high-value-for-money aged dancong teas that are perfect for both coffee and tea enthusiasts eager to explore this gem of Chinese tea culture.
Fenghuang Town in Chaozhou has long been a key production area for Fenghuang Dancong oolong tea, renowned for its diverse aroma profiles and distinctive regional flavors. Among them, the Fenghuang Dancong variety known as "Duck Shit Aroma" may sound peculiar, but it is actually one of the most popular teas locally. This year, we traveled to Fenghuang Village to gain an in-depth understanding of the culture and origin stories behind it, and to catch a glimpse of several precious old tea trees.
This year’s climate in Fenghuang Village was markedly different from previous years—temperatures were lower and rainfall significantly reduced—causing the tea leaves to grow more slowly and the overall harvest period to be postponed by about two to three weeks. However, these climatic conditions also resulted in denser tea leaf internals and a more lingering, fuller aftertaste in the brewed tea, which many tea aficionados recognize as a deeper expression of the year’s character.
A key factor in producing high-quality Fenghuang Dancong is the weather prior to picking—there must be consecutive sunny days. Rain can directly affect the moisture content of fresh leaves and subsequent processing, thereby influencing aroma expression. Thanks to the scarce rainfall this year, we were able to harvest a batch of teas with clear layers and distinct aromas, among which the Milan aroma performed particularly well. We specifically selected two styles: Nongxiang (with heavier roasting, offering intense flavors) and Qingxiang (refreshing and crisp), catering to different taste preferences.
The term "Dancong" refers to tea leaves picked from a single tea tree, representing a highly distinctive and rare category within Fenghuang oolong tea. We pre-ordered several aged old tea trees and, as agreed, obtained several varieties of tea with delicate textures and enduring flavors, smooth on the palate and with notable after-sweetness.
One unforgettable tea is the "Wenzhong Dancong," sourced from an extremely ancient tea tree recorded in the 《Fenghuang Dancong Tea Book》, often regarded as a "sacred tree" among local tea farmers. Initially, our supplier indicated that they would not harvest tea from this tree this year because the tree’s owner no longer wished to sell fresh leaves. However, at the last moment, a turnaround occurred: Mr. Wen, the tree’s owner, decided to release a small quantity of leaves out of gratitude for our tea master’s help in rescuing this once-dying tree in the past.
This Wenzhong tea tree was on the brink of death a few years ago, but thanks to the assistance of our tea-making partner, who helped Mr. Wen with careful care and scientific management, the old tree was revived. As a token of appreciation, Mr. Wen made an exception to allow the sale of some fresh leaves. However, he also admitted that due to rising market demand, starting next year, this tea will be released through auctions, with prices expected to be three times or more than current levels—this year may be the last chance to purchase it at a relatively reasonable price.
In addition to Wenzhong Dancong, we also focused on two aged dancong teas: Laocong Duck Shit Aroma and Laocong Songzhong. Both teas are made from specific old tea trees. Although not single-bush teas, their materials come from representative aged trees, thus exhibiting high quality and consistency. The interesting name "Duck Shit Aroma" reportedly originated from an early tea farmer who grew this variety; its uniquely strong fragrance led neighbors to mistakenly think duck manure had been used as fertilizer, and the name stuck. Today, it has become one of the classic aroma types among Fenghuang Dancong, characterized by a blend of orchid and honey fragrances, along with a quick sweetness finish.
Moreover, to cater to beginner tea enthusiasts, we also selected some more affordable Fenghuang teas, including several newly launched entry-level options suitable for those new to Fenghuang Dancong flavors. These teas are currently awaiting pesticide residue testing, with further processing expected to be completed in about a month—stay tuned.
In summary, although this year’s tea harvest in Fenghuang Village was delayed due to climate factors, it resulted in even richer and more enduring aromatic expressions. If you are a fan of both coffee and tea, take the time to explore the diverse aroma profiles and origin stories of Fenghuang Dancong—especially those like Wenzhong that carry historical and emotional value, which are truly rare finds.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
