Introduction:Oriental Beauty tea is one of the most iconic specialty teas in Taiwanese tea culture, and those made from Huanggan old-growth bushes are particularly rare. Huanggan, also known as Baixin or Baiye, is a small-leaf, late-maturing variety that was once widely planted in Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli but is now seldom seen. This article delves into its botanical characteristics, historical background, and unique citrusy-woody flavor profile, taking you on a journey to explore the charm of this black tea that combines notes of tapioca pearls, rattan, wooden cabinets, and citrus aromas.
As one of Taiwan’s most representative specialty teas, Oriental Beauty is renowned for its sweet aroma and honey-like sweetness. Among the various cultivars used to make Oriental Beauty, the old-growth black tea made from Huanggan (also called Baixin or Baiye) is especially precious. This variety is a small-leaf, late-maturing type that is naturally well-suited for black tea production. Although it was once extensively cultivated in Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli, due to changes in the global tea export market and the gradual phasing out of old tea trees, pure Huanggan tea has become extremely rare today.
Huanggan plants are of medium height with dense foliage. Their buds have a slight yellowish hue, and the leaves are mostly elliptical to obovate in shape, with a relatively high flower yield. During the Japanese colonial period, Huanggan tea was highly favored in the Japanese market for its pronounced honey-like aroma and outstanding tea liquor fragrance, making it one of the popular exported tea varieties of the time. However, the leaves of this variety are relatively thin, with severe woody fibrousness, and the resulting tea liquor was often described as “fragrant, but coarse in mouthfeel,” meaning while the aroma was excellent, the taste could be a bit rough.
Over time, Huanggan tea trees have crossbred with other varieties, and today, pure, non-hybrid Huanggan is almost impossible to find in the wild. Even the existing old-growth tea trees labeled as Huanggan mostly carry genetic variations, with some possibly being natural hybrids with other varieties such as Jin Xuan. Nevertheless, the Oriental Beauty tea produced by these old tea trees still retains its distinctive flavor framework and rich layers of aroma.
The picking of Huanggan old-growth Oriental Beauty tea focuses mainly on tender buds, particularly those with purple-hued, fibrous young tips, which are also one of the key factors contributing to its unique taste. After brewing, the tea liquor’s flavors are concentrated in the early sips, where one can immediately perceive a strong woody character—reminiscent of old tree trunks, rattan, or even the thickness of tree bark. This woody flavor often leaves a slightly dry and fibrous sensation on the palate, yet it is balanced by a delicate aftertaste, like dried orange peel or a faint citrus aroma, with a long-lasting finish.
The tea liquor has a dark and intense color, often exhibiting a special texture similar to beeswax or propolis, along with a mildly sharp, pungent taste. This intense visual and flavor experience is one of the key features that set Huanggan old-growth Oriental Beauty tea apart from other black teas. Additionally, depending on the year, tree age, and production methods, this tea may also present complex aromas such as tapioca pearls, volcanic tea, rattan chairs, a burning sensation, and red sugarcane (commonly referred to as “burnt A”), offering a rich and varied sensory profile.
It is worth noting that the throat resonance and layered complexity of Huanggan old-growth tea often unfold gradually with each subsequent infusion. It is recommended to use water at 90°C to 95°C, and employ a medium teapot steeping method or a gaiwan. For the first few infusions, a quick pour is advised to capture the fresh fruity-woody notes, while later infusions can have slightly extended steeping times to bring out the deeper woody and citrus tones. This tea is ideal for tea enthusiasts who enjoy exploring complex flavor layers and the historical background of tea varieties, and it is also a classic must-try for anyone seeking to understand Taiwan’s distinctive black teas.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
