Introduction:As one of China’s six major tea categories, oolong tea is renowned for its unique semi-fermented processing method and diverse aroma profiles. However, its origins remain the subject of various theories, including the accidental discovery by a hunter in Anxi, the documented evolution from Wuyi rock tea craftsmanship, and the hypothesized prototype found in the semi-fermented characteristics of Beiyuan tribute tea from the Song Dynasty. This article delves into these three major origin theories, tracing from historical records to the evolution of tea-making techniques, to reveal how oolong tea transitioned from an accidental creation to a systematic production process, while also exploring the cultural and technical heritage behind it.
Oolong tea is the most complex in processing and richest in flavor variation among China’s six major tea types. Its origins have long been explained through different perspectives, with the tea industry generally recognizing three main theories: the first originates from a folk legend in Anxi, Fujian, crediting a hunter and tea farmer named “Wulong” (literally Black Dragon); the second is based on the Wuyi rock tea production method recorded by Qing Dynasty scholar Wang Caotang in his "Cha Shuo," regarded as a living fossil of current oolong tea techniques; the third traces back to the Song Dynasty’s Beiyuan tribute tea, identifying similarities in withering, shaking, and semi-fermentation in the making of Longfeng tea cakes that resemble modern oolong tea. These three narratives, each supported by historical texts and processing methods, collectively illustrate the important journey of oolong tea from accidental creation to gradual standardization.
The Anxi legend describes an event during the Yongzheng era of the Qing Dynasty. The protagonist, Su Long, was a tea farmer and hunter from Nan Yan Village in Anxi, Fujian. Due to his constant outdoor activities in the mountains, his skin was dark, and he was affectionately nicknamed “Wulong,” meaning Black Dragon in Chinese. One spring, Su Long carried a bamboo basket up the mountain to pick tea and brought along his hunting rifle to supplement his family income. On his way home in the evening, he spotted a deer, shot it, but the wounded animal escaped deep into the forest. After a strenuous chase, Su Long finally captured the prey. Once home, his entire family was busy cooking the game and completely forgot about processing the fresh tea leaves, leaving them exposed outdoors overnight.
The next morning, Su Long was surprised to find the edges of the tea leaves had turned red—an obvious sign of prolonged oxidation—yet they emitted a refreshing fragrance unlike anything he had encountered before. When brewed, the tea soup was surprisingly smooth and almost entirely free of bitterness, which delighted everyone. Tea farmers in Nan Yan Village subsequently conducted repeated trials, gradually developing a complete set of tea-making procedures including withering, shaking, semi-fermentation, and roasting. Eventually, they created a uniquely flavored tea, which later became known as oolong tea. Though this account is considered a folk tale, it reflects the early tea farmers’ process of gaining experience through practice and gradually refining their techniques.
The Wuyi theory is based on the "Cha Shuo" written by Qing Dynasty literatus Wang Caotang, which meticulously documents the production steps of Wuyi rock tea and serves as a crucial text for studying oolong tea craftsmanship. According to the book, after picking, Wuyi tea leaves were first spread out in bamboo baskets to allow some moisture to evaporate through airflow, then moved to the sun for drying—this stage is referred to as “sun-drying.” Subsequently, the leaves gradually changed from bright green to a lighter hue, followed by pan-firing and roasting.
The text compares the production methods of various tea types: Yangxian tea was steamed but not stir-fried, then directly dried; Songluo tea and Longjing tea were stir-fried but not roasted, resulting in clear-colored tea; whereas Wuyi tea involved both stir-frying and roasting, giving the finished tea a “half-red, half-green” appearance—the green coming from stir-frying and the red from roasting. During production, fresh leaves needed to be spread out first and then shaken until their aroma emerged before being placed in the pan for frying. The control of heat during stir-frying and roasting was crucial, and old leaves and stems had to be continuously removed to ensure uniform quality. Tea expert Cheng Qikun pointed out that the process described in these records is indeed the current method used for making Wuyi rock tea and is also a typical representation of oolong tea craftsmanship.
The Tribute Tea theory traces the origin of oolong tea back to the Song Dynasty, focusing on the Longfeng tea cakes produced in the Beiyuan tea region of Fujian. As a famous tribute tea of the Song Dynasty, Beiyuan tea has a production history that dates back to the late Tang Dynasty, with its production area centered around Phoenix Mountain in Fujian. According to the "Fujian General Annals," Zhang Tinghui, the pioneer of Beiyuan tea, was honored as the “Tea God” for leading villagers to develop tea plantations locally and successfully producing the widely acclaimed Longfeng tuanbing tea (dragon-phoenix cake tea).
Song Dynasty tea scholar Cai Xiang, in his 1051 work "Cha Lu" (Record of Tea), spoke very highly of Beiyuan tea, stating that “when it comes to the mellow richness and smoothness of the tea soup, none surpasses that produced in Beiyuan on Phoenix Mountain.” The representative product of Beiyuan tea, the Longfeng tea cake, involved a production process where leaves picked in the early morning were first spread out to wither, then shaken in baskets at night, followed by steaming. By this stage, the tea leaves already exhibited partial semi-fermentation. These processing characteristics are quite close to the modern definition of oolong tea, leading many tea researchers to regard Beiyuan tea as a prototype or precursor to oolong tea, showcasing the early form of semi-fermented tea production.
In summary, although there are many theories about the origin of oolong tea, whether it's the folk story from Anxi, the documented craftsmanship from the Wuyi Mountain region, or the remnants of production methods from Song Dynasty tribute tea, they all point to the uniqueness and evolution of semi-fermented tea in terms of technique and flavor. Understanding these three origin theories not only provides deeper insight into the historical background of oolong tea, but also enhances the appreciation of its diverse types by revealing the accumulated technical expertise and cultural significance behind each cup.
The above content is compiled by CoffeeHunters, a coffee news website.
